The best white wines of Liguria 

The impervious terraces of Liguria where vines are grown, overhanging the sea, have earned it a reputation as being a region of heroic viticulture. Growers are forced to cultivate the vines in extreme conditions, in a strip of land with about 5,000 hectares under vine, on a predominantly mountainous (65%) and hilly (35%) territory. Of the 8,000 litres of wine produced per year (2018 data), most is white, divided into two macro-areas, in the long strip between the Riviera Ligure di Ponente and Levante. While the top wines are often monovarietals, the rest may often be found in blends, often from nearby Tuscany, as in the Colli di Luni DOC (Denominazione di Origine Controllata). Halfway between these two trends is the Golfo del Tigullio-Portofino DOC zone, where we find some monovarietal white wines, as in the case of Vermentino or Bianchetta Genovese, and various types of blends. 

Major designations 

Halfway between these two trends is the Golfo del Tigullio-Portofino DOC zone, where we find some monovarietal white wines, as in the case of Vermentino or Bianchetta Genovese, and various types of blends. Among the region’s most representative native varieties are Pigato and Vermentino, both produced in the Riviera di Ponente DOC zone. For both of these wines, the production protocol envisages various versions, from still and Superiore (with ABV at least one percent higher), to wine made from grapes partially dried on racks. Then there is one of the region’s best known wines, the Cinque Terre Sciacchetrà, an iconic raisin wine produced with the same varieties as its dry alter ego, Cinque Terre DOC, which comes from a blend of Bosco, Vermentino and/or Albarola. In general, these white wines can be paired with both Italian and international food, but let’s be honest, they give of their best when enjoyed with the traditional food of Liguria. 

Pairings to try 

If, as we have said, these excellent whites from Liguria are wonderful with the local cuisine, let’s have a look together at some delicious typical pairings. With the classic, highly fragrant and tasty trenette al pesto, try a Pigato, perhaps from the Riviera di Ponente DOC designation, which displays a straw yellow hue and a distinctive nose of aromatic herbs such as sage, alongside fruity and subtle mineral notes. The pleasing, rounded palate shows good length. Also excellent with local fish or trofie pasta. Try pairing Bianchetta Genovese – which you can find as a monovarietal in DOC Val Porcevera and Golfo del Tigullio-Portofino, with hints of spring flowers, attractive freshness and forthright dynamism – with simple appetizers, or enjoy it with Ligurian focaccia. If you prefer Recco focaccia with cheese, we suggest a more intense white, such as a Vermentino Superiore. 

More harmonious flavours and aromas 

If this wonderful Ligurian white is one of your favourites, because you appreciate its mineral aromas (much more intense than Pigato), its savoury, fresh palate and impressive length, you might want to try pairing it with richly-flavoured dishes, such as pasta with walnut sauce. Cinque Terre Sciacchetrà DOC, produced from grapes dried on racks, with a golden, almost amber hue, complex aromas of dried apricot, walnuts, honey and ethereal notes, is a real thoroughbred, excellent with all desserts and mature cheeses. Its cousin, the dry version, Cinque Terre DOC, with colours that range from greenish to straw yellow, an intense nose and a savoury palate, can be paired with a whole meal based on regional cuisine, but also makes a good aperitif. Now all you have to do is experiment!