The best white wines of Abruzzo 

From the Adriatic to the mountains, with the hills in between, the territory of Abruzzo has a certain wildness about it that makes it seductively unique. The winegrowing area is spread over the coastal hills, but there are also areas inland where vines grow very well. This region is particularly well known for its red wines, but the whites are no less interesting. The most famous include Passerina and Pecorino, wines which are also produced in Marche, and which in recent years have earned a solid reputation on the regional wine scene. These traditional wines from the province of Teramo, which had almost completely disappeared until a few decades ago, are produced in the Controguerra DOC (Denominazione di Origine Controllata) zone. Fresh, firmly-structured and aromatic, these monovarietals must contain a minimum of 85% Passerina or Pecorino. 

Major designations 

We also find these varieties on the borders of Molise, in the province of Chieti, alongside a variety which is now little known, Cococciola. This high-yield variety was for many years used in blends with other grapes. In recent years it is has been experiencing a renaissance, and we are now seeing the production of interesting monovarietals from Cococciola. The province of Chieti was also the birthplace, in July 2019, of a new DOCG (Denominazione di Origine Controllata e Garantita) wine, Tullum, whose white version envisages the use of both Pecorino and Passerina. The great white of the region, both in terms of fame and production quantity, is Trebbiano d’Abruzzo DOC, found throughout the region, but particularly in the province of Pescara, from whence its fame has spread all over the world. 

Pairings to try 

With its straw yellow hue, often displaying golden nuances, Trebbiano d’Abruzzo DOC is a white with an intense, mineral nose, offering clear peach and apricot notes, a savoury, complex palate and an almond finish. This wine lends itself to transversal pairings, both in the “base” and Riserva versions, and can accompany the whole meal in style. The base version goes well with seafood dishes, such as shellfish or stewed octopus, while the Riserva, showing greater body and structure, can be combined with more complex, richer dishes, such as pasta with mullet bottarga or grilled swordfish. With aromas of pineapple, elderflower and lime, pleasantly savoury and elegant on the palate, Passerina is a white wine that requires pairings with a similar range of flavours, such as Mediterranean-style salmon fillets or prawns with leeks and ginger. 

More harmonious flavours and aromas 

With a more mineral, dry character, Pecorino makes the perfect accompaniment to small octopus, or cuttlefish with peas and potatoes, but is also excellent with gratinéed sea bream fillets and lemon. A Chardonnay from Abruzzo can happily accompany an entire meal, starting with breaded prawn tails, but make sure you opt for a Riserva, especially if you give the dish a tropical twist by adding grated coconut to the breadcrumbs. You can then move on to stuffed squid in tomato sauce and finish with tuna in a pine nut and oregano crust. Cococciola d’Abruzzo, with its hints of fruit and spring flowers, over a tangy, full-flavoured palate, is best paired with delicate dishes based on white meats or fish. Now that you know how to pair Abruzzo’s wines, give them a try!